Naradevi Swetkali Jatra: Celebrating the Divine Mother of Kathmandu Every 12 Years
Every year, the historic heart of Kathmandu, Nardevi, comes alive with the vibrant celebration of the Swetkali Ajima Jatra, a sacred festival honoring the ferocious yet compassionate mother goddess Swetkali Ajima. Nardevi, formerly known as Nyata Bhulu, is said to be the very core of ancient Kathmandu, where spiritual energy and cultural traditions converge. The majestic three-storied pagoda-style Naradevi Temple, located between Chhetrapati and Basantapur Durbar Square, serves as the centerpiece of this grand festival.
The Swetkali Ajima Jatra is a deeply spiritual and communal event, bringing together followers from all across the valley to honor the goddess through ritual dances, offerings, and traditional processions. The dance begins within the temple area, one of the valley's oldest sacred locations, said to date back to the Lichchhavi period, when King Gunakamadev, the founder of ancient Kantipur (modern Kathmandu), established the city in the 9th century.
Every 12 years, the festival assumes an even more significant form, known as the Barabarse Naradevi Swetkali Parba, during which the rituals, dances, and goddess processions take place on a much greater scale, signifying the regeneration of spiritual strength and the eternal relationship between the goddess and her devotees.
Origin Story of the Naradevi Temple in Kathmandu
According to legend, a king from Patan once came to Kathmandu to hunt. During the journey, he became separated from his group and lost in the thick jungles of Kathmandu, which was then known as Kantipur. As he went through the forest, he came to the area now known as Kilagal, where a wild elephant charged at him. In despair, the king escaped and sought shelter behind a huge tree near where the Naradevi Temple now stands.
The king fainted from exhaustion and fear. At that point, the celestial goddess Swetkali Devi stood before him. She spoke gently, saying, "You shall live. I will save your life." The king regained consciousness and understood that the goddess herself had saved his life. He felt deeply touched by her grace and returned to his kingdom in Patan, where he ordered the construction of a temple to honor Swetkali Ajima.
Later, two Bhaktapur kings are said to have seen the same deity. To assure the temple's ongoing maintenance and devotion, they formed a committee (samiti) to ensure its preservation and rituals, a practice that continues to this day.
The Origin and Sacred Traditions of the Naradevi Temple
It is said that the king started the sacred tradition by offering a clarified butter lamp and offering a sheep to the goddess. This ritual marked the start of the tradition that would become an important aspect of the Swetkali Ajima tradition.
The Kumhale clan of Thimi, Bhaktapur, continues to practice this traditional ritual in honor of the goddess, performing it with immense precision and care. The Newars devotedly refer to the main goddess of Naradevi Temple, Swetkali or Seto Kali, also known as Ngatbhulu Ajima in Newari. Some ancient stone inscriptions and carvings (shila) refer to the goddess by a different name, Diteshwori, indicating her as a strong local guardian deity.
Introduction to Naradevi
Swetkali, also known as Nyata Bhulu Ajima in the Newar community, is revered as the main deity Naradevi. Swetkali, derived from the Sanskrit words "sweta" (white) and "kali" (black or dark), has significant symbolic meaning. Sweta symbolizes purity, peacefulness, and serenity, whereas Kali signifies immense power, transformational force, and destruction of evil.
The combination of these two opposing forces, serenity and ferocity, forms a divine balance that characterizes the essence of Goddess Swetkali. She is both sympathetic and formidable, representing the ideal balance of creation and destruction. Swetkali Ajima, the guardian of humanity, represents the triumph of wisdom and virtue over ignorance and darkness, giving her believers power, protection, and liberation from any evil.
The Story Behind the Dance
The Devi Nacha, a divine dance that retells the ancient narrative of Chandeshwori and the demon Chandasur Daitya, is at the center of the Swetkali Ajima Jatra's dance. This tale is told through a series of symbolic gestures, with each deity presenting their introductory steps before the final skit begins.
According to the legend, Chandasur Daitya was a formidable and terrifying demon with unparalleled strength and courage. His presence threw a gloom over the people, yet he fell deeply in love with Chandi, the daughter of Nyata Bhulu Ajima (Swetkali). This prohibited union disturbed the goddess, who understood how it would cause imbalance and suffering. Despite her pleas, Chandi refused to be persuaded; love had blinded her to the demon's true nature.
Swetkali Ajima came up with a supernatural scheme to defend her daughter and the country. She created a powerful, intoxicating potion and presented it to Chandi, who unknowingly consumed it. In her dazed, entranced state, Chandi was guided by her mother’s divine will. When the moment arrived, Swetkali exchanged her own divine sword with Chandi’s, empowering her to perform the final act. Overcome by a fierce, righteous force, Chandi turned on the demon and delivered a single fatal blow, destroying Chandasur Daitya.
From that point on, Chandi received the title "Chandeshwori," the Slayer of Chandasur, and became known as the ferocious guardian goddess who destroyed the forces that threatened cosmic and social balance.
Rituals and Dances of Swetkali Ajima Jatra
The spiritual Devi Nacha Parva, or Goddess Dance Festival, is located at the center of the Swetkali Ajima Jatra and is one of Kathmandu's most ancient and esoteric rituals. Every twelve years, with unmatched grandeur, this festival transforms the ancient neighborhood of Naradevi into a living temple where gods and goddesses are believed to descend and dance among mortals.
Sacred Rituals and Processions
The celebration begins with strong preliminary rituals, such as the Forgiveness Worship (Kshama Puja) and Kalas Sadhana Worship, which cleanse the sacred lands and attract divine presence. Following these rites, the major attraction, the Devi Nacha, or Dance of the Goddess, is performed by selected members of the Putuwar community. According to an old custom, only unmarried males are authorized to perform these sacred dances, as purity of behavior is regarded as essential to embodying the deities.
The masked dancers, dressed in shiny crowns and traditional attire, become conduits for divine energy. While dancing, they are thought to be briefly possessed by the deities they represent. The performances are backed by an orchestra of tantric musical instruments, including the khin (drum), taa (cymbals), ponga (horn), bhusya (gong), and chuchiya (little cymbal), whose rhythm corresponds to the goddess's beating heart. The music's throbbing beat, mixed with spiritual chants, creates an aura of devotion and transcendence on the streets.
The Divine Procession and Its Taboos
During the procession, the goddess Ngatbhulu Ajima (Swetkali) and her divine companions are taken through Naradevi's allowing residents, where inhabitants can get blessings. However, the event is also bound by significant spiritual taboos. Misfortune is said to befall anybody who catches the gaze of Akash Devi, one of the participating goddesses. As a religious precaution, individuals are not permitted to witness the dances from rooftops, windows, or balconies, as declared publicly over loudspeakers.
According to tradition, Naradevi sprang from a Cha Swa flower to preserve mankind from evil powers, giving her the name Naradevi, which translates to "The Goddess Who Protects the People." The tradition of wearing crowns and performing sacred dances is supposed to have originated during King Amar Malla's reign and was subsequently developed under King Ran Bahadur Shah's reign, when the magnificent Barabarse Jatra was established as a celebration of purification, renewal, and protection.
Behind the Masks: Preparation & Sacred Lineage
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The dancers who impersonate these deities undergo days of preparation, including fasting, ceremonial purification, mantra recitation, and periods of silence. The privilege to conduct the 12-year Nardevi Naach is hereditary and has been passed down through chosen Newar households for generations.
Over 63 dancers from more than 130 families participate, led by the Naradevi Shree Swet Kali Conservation and Management Society. During the dance, performers achieve a near-trance condition and are thought to transform into living vessels for the gods. Their motions are more than just choreography; they are a holy incarnation of divine intent, bridging the mortal world and the realm of deities.
The masks used in the dance are created by Newar artists from wood, clay, or papier-mâché and painted in symbolic colors. Every gesture, the lifting of a hand, a twisting of the wrist, a step of the foot, is passed down through generations and contains ancestral meaning.
The procession passes through ancient temples, narrow alleys, and Durbar squares in old Kathmandu, many of which date back to the Malla era, reinforcing the festival's status as a living museum of Kathmandu’s sacred history.
Deities Featured in the Swetkali Ajima Jatra
1. Kumari
Kumari, the Living Goddess of Nepal, symbolizes purity, divine innocence, and the unbroken spiritual energy of Taleju. Her presence in the jatra represents protection, auspiciousness, and the safeguarding of the city’s moral order. Kumari’s appearance blesses devotees with fearlessness and good fortune, and her energy is believed to dispel illness, misfortune, and unseen obstacles. She symbolizes the untainted essence of feminine divinity.
2. Mahalaxmi
Mahalaxmi is the goddess of wealth, prosperity, and harmony. In the jatra, she represents the flourishing of the community and the stability of households. Her dance invokes abundance and the removal of poverty, both material and spiritual. As a nurturing mother, she sustains the prosperity of Kathmandu and ensures the cycle of growth and well-being.
3. Bhairav
Bhairav, a fierce form of Shiva, is the guardian of sacred spaces and the destroyer of ignorance. He represents raw, unrestrained divine power that protects Naradevi and the entire valley. His thunderous dance in the festival wards off malevolent entities, purifies the surroundings, and maintains cosmic order. Bhairav’s presence is essential for balancing the energy of the fierce mother goddess.
4. Kumar (Kartikeya)
Kumar, the youthful god of war and son of Shiva and Parvati, symbolizes courage, vitality, and divine leadership. His energetic dance brings renewal and vigor to the procession. He protects Kathmandu from conflict, discord, and misfortune. Kumar is also associated with healing and the safeguarding of children.
5. Varahi
Varahi, with the boar’s face, is one of the Ashta Matrikas and symbolizes earth power and stability. Her dance grounds the energy of the festival, ensuring the community’s roots remain strong. She protects the land, agriculture, and fertility of the valley. Varahi’s fierce compassion wards off harmful forces that threaten livelihood and prosperity.
6. Nara Devi (Swetkali / Nyata Bhulu Ajima)
Swetkali, the central deity of the jatra, embodies the perfect balance of calm (Sweta) and ferocity (Kali). She is the protector of Kathmandu and the mother goddess of Naradevi. Her blessing brings purification, liberation from disasters, and protection from demonic influences. Swetkali is revered as the fierce guardian who destroys evil while nurturing her devotees with compassion.
7. Sukhavati Lokeshwor (Su:tha Maju)
Su:tha Maju, a special deity appearing only during the 12-year jatra, is a compassionate form of Avalokiteshvara. She represents mercy, healing, and the salvation of beings from suffering. Her presence reflects the deep syncretism of Buddhist, Shaiva, and Shakta traditions in the valley. She blesses Kathmandu with peace, rainfall, and emotional well-being.
8. Chandasur Daitya
Chandasur Daitya is the powerful demon whose myth forms the dramatic narrative centerpiece of the jatra. Known for his immense strength, he falls in love with Chandi — a forbidden union. His defeat by Chandi symbolizes the triumph of dharma over chaos. His role teaches that unchecked desire and ego ultimately lead to downfall.
9. Chandeswori
Chandeswori is the fierce warrior goddess who slays the demon Chandasur. Her dance reenacts the triumph of divine justice over demonic forces. She represents courage, righteous anger, and the fierce protection of the innocent. Chandeswori’s victory ensures the renewal of cosmic order and the safety of the valley.
10. Rudrayani
Rudrayani is the fierce manifestation of Parvati and a member of the Ashta Matrikas. She embodies storm energy, purification, and the destruction of obstacles. Her dance purges negativity, illness, and misfortune from the community. As a protector of the city, Rudrayani ensures that destructive forces are transformed into spiritual strength.
11. Shingini (Singini)
Singini, the lioness goddess, represents fearlessness, sharp intuition, and the protection of sacred spaces. Her fierce energy guards against pride, arrogance, and harmful spirits. In the jatra, her movements mirror the grace and power of a lioness, ensuring courage and valor for the community.
12. Brahmayani
Brahmayani, another of the Ashta Matrikas, symbolizes creation, knowledge, and divine wisdom. Her gentle but powerful presence represents the nurturing aspect of the cosmos. Through her dance, she blesses the city with clarity, learning, and spiritual harmony.
13. Ganesh
Ganesh, the remover of obstacles, leads the procession with his auspicious presence. His playful yet dignified dance opens pathways for blessings and ensures a smooth festival. Ganesh is revered for his ability to clear hindrances, protect travelers, and bring success to community endeavors.
14. Indrayani
Indrayani, the consort of Indra, embodies rain, storms, and cosmic order. Her dance invokes timely rainfall, agricultural prosperity, and environmental balance. She is also a protector against droughts and natural calamities, ensuring harmony between humans and nature.
15. Mahadev
Mahadev, the supreme form of Shiva, represents ultimate consciousness, balance, and transcendence. His presence in the 12-year jatra symbolizes cosmic stability and the union of masculine and feminine divine energies. Mahadev blesses the city with meditation, clarity, and inner strength.
Supporting Figures
Byaghrini / Dhwon (Tiger)
Byaghrini, represented through the majestic tiger, is not worshipped as a deity but revered as a guardian spirit in the Swetkali Ajima Jatra. Symbolizing strength, fearlessness, and instinctive protection, she walks alongside the goddess to clear the path of spiritual dangers. In tantric symbolism, the tiger represents mastery over anger and primal force. During the procession, Byaghrini ensures that no harmful entities approach the divine retinue. Her presence reinforces courage and vigilance in the community.
Dhwo (Fox)
Dhwo, the fox figure, is another guardian entity who appears only during the Barabarse (12-year) Nardevi dance. Foxes in the Newar tantric tradition symbolize cleverness, subtle perception, and the ability to outsmart unseen obstacles. Dhwo moves lightly with the procession, embodying silent protection and alertness. Rather than a deity, Dhwo is a symbolic spirit-helper whose role is to detect hidden dangers and guide the deities safely through the city’s sacred routes.
Khicha (Dog)
Khicha represents the loyal guardian dog spirit, whose role is to maintain vigilance and purity within the procession. Dogs in Kathmandu’s ancient ritual traditions are believed to ward off malevolent spirits and guide souls across unseen realms. Khicha accompanies the goddess’s dance as a fearless protector, symbolizing loyalty, devotion, and unwavering watchfulness. Like Dhwo and Byaghrini, Khicha is not a deity but a sacred guardian essential to maintaining ritual safety and spiritual order during the festival.
Conclusion
The Swetkali Ajima Jatra is a live representation of Kathmandu Valley's spiritual memory, unique tradition, and ancestral devotion. Every step of the Devi Nacha, every beat of the khin and taa, and every masked dancer who enters a trance-like condition depict centuries of faith sustained by unshakable community support. Swetkali Ajima, the powerful defender of Naradevi, continues to guide her followers with compassion and strength, reminding them of the eternal balance of tranquility and power.
The 12-year Barabarse festival symbolizes a profound renewal of this sacred bond. The event, which features nineteen deities, tantric rituals, ancestral masks, and religious taboos, transforms Naradevi's streets into a colorful realm where the human and divine worlds meet. It is a collective prayer for safety, prosperity, and the city's overall well-being.
As long as the Naradevi community upholds these traditions, Kathmandu's historic heartbeat will go on. The Swetkali Ajima Jatra reminds us that culture is preserved not just by monuments, but also by the passion, discipline, and solidarity of those who perform these rituals.